All-Russian Olympiad for schoolchildren elementary school. school stage

A screw, screw or self-tapping screw that does not get out of the material is a common problem, and almost everyone encountered it during repair work. There are many reasons for this phenomenon. For example, it can be a defective fastener, damage to the splines due to the inexperience of the performer, or a worn out tool that does not provide tight contact with the part being twisted. Sometimes it seems that it is no longer possible to remove the jammed fasteners, they are stuck so tightly, but the task is completely solvable.

1. Tool change

With the screwdriver constantly jumping off the slots, the reason may be the wear of the sting. In this case, the tool is replaced. A new screwdriver is inserted into the screw head, making sure that the tip is pressed tightly against the slot, firmly entering the grooves, and they try to unscrew the fastener.

Helpful advice from the site: In the case when the fasteners cannot be unscrewed, the first thing to do is to stop. Attempting to continue unscrewing can aggravate the situation, and a screwdriver that constantly jumps off can damage the material. Assess the condition of the screw and try other extraction methods.

2. Pliers

If the stuck screw or self-tapping screw is not fully tightened and the top protrudes above the surface of the fastened part, you can try to remove it with pliers or pliers. Carefully, so as not to damage the material, the clamps of the tool grab the head of the fastener on the sides. Then it is slowly unscrewed by turning it counterclockwise.

3. Drill

A screw that has not completely gone into the material can be tried to be pulled out with an electric drill or screwdriver. The tool chuck is opened, put on the screw head and the clamping mechanism is tightened, securing the head in the chuck. Then set the reverse mode and carefully turn the screw out of the material. This works with almost any type of threaded element or jammed bolt, as long as there is a part of the head that the cartridge can catch on.

4. Auxiliary material

If the fastener is completely recessed, you can try to improve the grip of the cap and the screwdriver with some kind of material. It can be a piece of the abrasive layer of an ordinary kitchen sponge or adhesive tape pasted on a defective hat. But it is best to use a strip of rubber or leather. It can be of any width, although a piece of such dimensions is desirable that will cover the head of the screw completely. This will provide a large contact area between the head and the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit. A piece of rubber is placed on the head of the fastener, a screwdriver is applied and they try to unscrew the stuck part.

5. Edge notch

In the case of a torn off screw head or worn edges, you can make an incision on the head for a better stop of a flat screwdriver. The notch is applied using a dremel, grinder or other metal-cutting tool. However, this method will damage the surface of the material if the screw sits too deep.

Useful advice: If the material allows, you can use the property of the metal to expand when heated and contract when cooled. Stuck fasteners are heated with a lighter, soldering iron or building hair dryer. The screw will slightly increase, bursting the material, and when it cools down, it will return to its previous state. As a result, a microscopic gap may appear between the rod and the material, which will slightly loosen the fastening and make it easier to unscrew.

6. Extractor

If the previous methods did not work, you can use an extractor. It has the appearance of a metal rod with a screw thread and is designed specifically for unscrewing stuck bolts and screws. Before using the tool, a vertical hole is drilled in the screw with a thin drill. The screw end of the extractor is inserted there and at first it is slowly turned, achieving a strong fixation. Then unscrew the screw.
The advantage of this method is that it does not damage the material from which the seated fastener is removed. Almost all types of fasteners can be unscrewed in this way, with the exception of self-tapping screws made of hardened steel. In such material it is almost impossible to drill a thin hole for the extractor, the drill will go to the side.

7. Nut and wrench

Another solution to the problem is to glue a nut to the top of the screw or screw. This can be done by cold welding or hot, if skills allow. After hardening, the screw is unscrewed with a wrench.

8. Cork drill

If the screw is so deep in the wood that there is no way to get close to it, but you need to remove it, you can use a cork drill. It makes neat holes and uses it to remove material around the stuck fastener.

9. Drill out completely

When all of the above methods have failed, the cardinal method of removing stuck fasteners remains. The screw or screw is drilled out completely, to the base. Then a new fastener of a larger diameter is inserted into the hole.

Practical advice: When removing a stuck fastener, safety precautions must be observed. During the drilling process, metal chips are generated that scatter to the sides, and if they get into the eyes, injury can result. At the end of the work, the chips are removed with a brush or sponge so as not to damage the skin on the hands.

The car has many parts connected to each other with screws, bolts and screws. Quite often, situations arise when the bolt head or slots on the screw, screw are licked off. Therefore, the question of how to unscrew a bolt or screw with licked edges is relevant for many motorists.

Why do the edges of a screw, screw or bolt stick together

Licking is the grinding of the edges of a bolt or a slot for a screwdriver on the head of a screw, screw or self-tapping screw. Both the master and the beginner can face such a problem. When the edges of the bolt are licked, the key begins to slip on it and it is not possible to unscrew such an element. For screws and screws, the slots on the head can be damaged, this also leads to turning the screwdriver and it is not possible to unscrew the damaged fasteners.

The reasons why the slots of a screw, screw or edge of a bolt, nuts can lick off:

• use of worn tools;
• improper use of a wrench or screwdriver;
• poor quality fastener.

If during unscrewing the fasteners a key or a screwdriver slipped through, do not panic and you need to figure out the reason. Sometimes it is enough to change a screwdriver or a key so that the problem is immediately solved.

Methods for loosening bolts, screws, screws with licked edges

If in the usual way it was not possible to unscrew the fasteners whose edges have fused, you can use one of several proven options.

This method is used when loosening bolts, as they have a protruding head that you can grab onto. For this:

The disadvantage of this method is that it is not always possible to get close to the desired bolt with a gas wrench.

Cutting new edges

If the bolt is large, then with the help of a grinder you can cut new edges on it. It is enough to make only 4 of them and, using an already smaller key, unscrew the bolt. It is possible to cut new edges on the bolt with a file, but this is more difficult and takes longer. On the head of a screw or screw, you can make a cut with a hacksaw or a grinder.

Hammer and chisel or impact screwdriver

This option is more suitable for licked nuts or fairly large screws. The chisel rests against the head of the fastener and, striking it with a hammer, gradually turn the screw or nut. Small screws or screws can be loosened with an impact screwdriver and a hammer. After loosening the fastening, the work is already done with a conventional screwdriver.

Band or piece of rubber

In this case, a small part of a medical tourniquet or a piece of dense rubber is used. The selected material is placed on top of the head of the screw or screw, after which it is pressed with a screwdriver and gradually turned. The presence of rubber will help increase friction and solve the problem.

Extractor

An extractor is a special tool that is used to loosen screws, bolts or screws with licked or broken heads.

The order of its application:

Video: unscrewing a licked screw with an extractor

Conventional or left hand drill

On sale there are left-handed drills with counterclockwise rotation. They improve the centering of the tool and reduce the load on the drill, resulting in higher productivity and drilling accuracy. By inserting such a tool into a drill, you can unscrew a screw or screw with a licked head. If there is no left-handed drill, you can try to drill out the stuck fasteners using a regular one. In this case, you need to take a drill with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the bolt or screw. It is necessary to act carefully so that you do not have to cut threads for new fasteners later.

Glue

A nut of the appropriate diameter is fixed to the head of the problem screw or screw using epoxy glue or glue called "cold welding". After the glue securely fixes it, turn the nut with a wrench and unscrew the screw or screw with it.

Welding

If there is a welding machine nearby, then you can fix a new nut on the head of the bolt or screw by welding it. After that, it can be immediately unscrewed.

Solder and soldering iron

If you need to unscrew a small screw or screw, use a soldering iron and solder:

Video: ways to unscrew a bolt with licked edges

How to prevent tearing edges

So that such a problem as torn edges of a bolt or slots of a screw, a screw does not take you by surprise, you must follow simple rules:

• you need to buy only high-quality fasteners that have high strength and reliability;
• during tightening and loosening screws or screws, the screwdriver must not slip through the slots. This leads to their erasure and it will be difficult to unscrew such fasteners;
• You should always keep an eye on the condition of the tool. If a screwdriver or wrench has licked edges, then it will be difficult to unscrew the screw, bolt or screw with their help.

It is much easier to prevent the edges on bolts, screws and screws from licking than to unscrew damaged fasteners later.

Do not panic when a problem such as a licked bolt head or slots on the screw head appears. There are many ways to solve it. It is necessary to adequately assess the situation that has arisen, and choose one of the available options.

When the screw in the thread scrolls normally, it is unscrewed with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
But how do aircraft with non-loosening propellers get out?

Screws can turn sour in the thread due to corrosion, they can dry out due to flooding during painting (paint flows under the screw head and dries there).

For reasons of minimizing damage to surrounding elements, it is best to try to unscrew the screw.
If the screw does not turn with a screwdriver or screwdriver, you must try to prevent the tool from slipping out of the slot. When it jumps out, it usually damages the spline along the way, and the screw can no longer transmit that torque, as with an intact spline.
Therefore, it is important to preserve the slots on the head of the screw, and therefore the bit or screwdriver must match the size and type of the slot of the screw and not dangle in it.

If you try to unscrew the screw and it does not turn, then you do not need to rape it a hundred times in the same way.
We must try to press the tool and transfer the maximum possible moment.
For pressing, a screwdriver is no longer very convenient, and I use a brace or a ratchet with a long handle (1/2 ″ square).
There are rotaries of a meter or more in length with two handles of half a meter. If it is conveniently and evenly pressed against the screw, then they sometimes manage to remove the stuck screw. We don't have those now.

To increase the friction in the spline, we have a special paste:

Judging by the sensations, it consists of a fine abrasive powder with some kind of liquid binder.
We apply it to the slot of the screw, press the brace or ratchet well, and try to turn it.
Usually it turns out much better than without pasta.
The blue drop on the left below the tube is a little of that paste.

The paste really helps to keep the tool in the slot.
I found a similar paste at Liqui Moly - its article is 3811. They write that it increases friction five times.
It is especially effective to use it in conjunction with bits that have notches on the working surfaces.

If this method does not help, but the slots are still not completely torn off, we begin to work under duress.

This, in fact, is a lever that allows you to significantly increase the pressure on the unscrewed screw, and not allow the bit to jump out of the slot.
This device only works when there is something to rest against.
Normally, to use it, you need to have at least one unscrewed screw not far from the problematic one.
A threaded adapter is screwed into the thread of the unscrewed screw:

, and the hinge of the lever is screwed into the other end of the adapter:

(bottom left corner of photo)
Then we bring the moving part to the screw and insert the bit in the fixture chuck into the slot of the screw.

It would be nice to put a drop of the same paste into the slot.

We strongly press the other end of the lever, and with an open-end wrench we turn the hexagon of the device with a bat.
Usually, there is nothing to oppose the screws against such scrap, and they are unscrewed.

Devices based on this principle can have a different design and different efficiency.
I remember that the Rossiya airline had a device of a similar principle of operation, but much less; called Vera Quick.

You can also spray WD-40 on the threads, but in our work to access reverse side screws usually need to remove the panel it holds :)
I also sometimes tap the screw head through the punch with a hammer. In doing so, I hope to slightly move the screw along the axis and break up the dried paint under its head. I don't know how effective it is.

If these measures do not help, and the splines are torn off, then the next step is to use an extractor.

In the head of the screw, a hole of a slightly smaller diameter is drilled directly along the axis than the screw itself.
Then, with such a knob, an extractor is screwed into this hole.
It has a left hand thread with sharp edges.

When the knob is rotated counterclockwise, the extractor is screwed into the hole and pulls the screw to unscrew.
This usually helps to unscrew it quickly enough.
Well-sharpened metal drills and new extractors are needed for work - then there are usually no problems.

When the tool is bad, it happens that the core helps.
I drill a small, preferably blind, hole in the head of the screw right next to its edge.
Then I put a core to the hole tangentially to the circumference of the cap and hit it with a hammer, trying to move the screw counterclockwise.
This method is inconvenient (the core breaks), and in the presence of a normal tool, it does not come to it.

As the most extreme way to eliminate an interfering screw, you can drill out its head.
This is not very good, since it is easy to damage the panel itself, which is held by the screw. Most of the panels are plastic.
After removing the panel, you can try to unscrew the screw by grasping the protruding piece of his body with pliers. This is not always possible, since the approaches are very uncomfortable both from the front and from the back.

In my experience, the propellers on the A320 turn sour much less frequently than on the B737.
The situation is especially sad on the 737 Classic. I think this is largely due to the age of such aircraft. It happens that up to a third of the screws on the panel cannot be unscrewed simply with a screwdriver or screwdriver. And the panels there are rich in screws :)

Probably, experienced locksmiths know and are able to many other ways to unscrew the screws, but I described those that I used myself.
And yes - in my practice, an impact screwdriver has never helped to unscrew the screw.

It has become a good tradition to hold the All-Russian school olympiad. Its main task is to identify gifted children, to motivate schoolchildren to in-depth study items, development creativity and out-of-the-box thinking in children.

The Olympic movement is gaining more and more popularity among schoolchildren. And there are reasons for this:

• winners of the All-Russian round are accepted to universities without competition if the profile subject is an olympiad subject (diplomas of the winners are valid for 4 years);
• participants and prize-winners receive additional chances upon admission to schools(if the subject is not in the profile of the university, the winner receives an additional 100 points upon admission);
• significant monetary reward for prizes (60 thousand, 30 thousand rubles;
• and, of course, fame throughout the country.

Before you become a winner, you must go through all the stages All-Russian Olympiad:

1. The initial school stage, at which worthy representatives are determined for the next level, is held in September-October 2017. The organization and conduct of the school stage is carried out by specialists of the methodological office.
2. The municipal stage is held between the schools of the city or district. It takes place at the end of December 2017. – early January 2018
3. The third round is more difficult. Talented students from all over the region take part in it. The regional stage takes place in January-February 2018.
4. The final stage determines the winners of the All-Russian Olympiad. In March-April, the best children of the country compete: the winners of the regional stage and the winners of last year's Olympiad.

The organizers of the final round are representatives of the Ministry of Education and Science of Russia, they also sum up the results.

You can show your knowledge in any subject: mathematics, physics, geography, even physical education and technology. You can compete in erudition in several subjects at once. There are 24 disciplines in total.

Olympiad subjects are divided into areas:

№	Direction	Items
1	Exact disciplines	mathematics, computer science
2	Natural sciences	geography, biology, physics, chemistry, ecology, astronomy
3	Philological disciplines	literature, Russian language, foreign languages
4	Humanities	economics, social studies, history, law
5	Other	art, technology, physical education, basics of life safety

The peculiarity of the final stage of the Olympiad consists in two types of tasks: theoretical and practical. For example, to get nice results in geography, students must complete 6 theoretical tasks, 8 practical tasks, as well as answer 30 test questions.

The first stage of the Olympiad begins in September, which means that those wishing to take part in the intellectual marathon should prepare in advance. But above all, they must have a good school-level base, which must be constantly replenished with additional knowledge that goes beyond school curriculum.

The official website of the Olympiad www.rosolymp.ru places tasks from previous years. These materials can be used in preparation for an intellectual marathon. And of course, you can’t do without the help of teachers: additional classes after school, classes with tutors.

The winners of the final stage will take part in international olympiads. They form the national team of Russia, which will be trained at training camps in 8 subjects.

To provide methodological assistance, orientation webinars are held on the site, the Central Organizing Committee of the Olympiad, subject-methodical commissions have been formed.